Telephone: 076 288703

Open: 10am to late, every day. Takeaways.

Address: Beach Road, Rawai.

Style: Beachfront Italian/Thai.

Price range: Tourist prices. eggs, bacon, tomato, toast, jam (180 baht) bruschetta (90 baht) garlic bread (90 baht) deep fried squid rings (160 baht) cheese and bacon burger (200 baht) french fries (95 baht) burger with the lot (250 baht) tomato salad (120 baht) tempura (140 baht) satay pork/beef/chicken (140 baht) tuna sandwich (160 baht) homemade beef lasagna (220 baht) spaghetti bolognaise (180 baht) nikita's special pizza (240 baht) pizza napoli (240 baht) fish and chips (240 baht) steak mushroom pie, french fries and peas (250 baht) beef goulash (290 baht) mashed potato (95 baht) spicy seafood salad (140 baht) prawn salad (140 baht) massaman curry (160 baht) steamed rice with prawns (90 baht) stir fried crab (180 baht) deep fried white snapper (390 baht) banana split (120 baht) tiramisu (140 baht) fresh coconut (60 baht) coke (50 baht) bloody mary (160 baht) singha beer (75 baht).

Specialties: Pizzas, seafood.

We arrived at 11.30am, half expecting to catch Nikita's napping. In bygone days it would have been far too early to find signs of life at a venue where the nights have always been prime time. But Phuket has changed. We did catch one old dog napping under a tree, but other old dogs were already enjoying a convivial yap at what's now one of Phuket's most charming and best known restaurants - even if they do try to tell you online that it's still a well-kept secret. For years, Nikita's got by with food brought in from a neighboring kitchen, but now with a kitchen to call its own plus a wood-fired pizza oven, Nikita's is a formidable competitor for round-the-clock trade. And the island charm is still there, under the tamarinds, with a sea eagle circling and the Rawai tide lapping at the table legs. There are few finer locations anywhere on Phuket. However, at these prices, Nikita's move to be the real deal as a restaurant should really be accompanied by less quirky service. Sadly, it hasn't happened. An order of a late-breakfast ham and eggs arrived with the Thai meal, so two of our party of four were able to complete their lunch together. Then it was their turn to look on as the remaining two ate their lasagnas, which arrived just as the first meals were being finished. More significantly, for some reason - perhaps it was just a mite early in the day - the waitresses declined to smile, even in exchange for one. It was as though they'd all just been told they couldn't eat som tam for a year. True, Nikita's own food was tasty, even at prices that no longer quite represent top value, and the seaside setting remains as beguiling as ever. Even eating in shifts we are prepared to accept as part of Nikita's quirky charm. But service without a smile? On Phuket? That's exceptional. Please, please, let them have their som tam.

How to find it: The Rawai pier end of Rawai beach.

Parking: A small area directly outside the restaurant.

Phuketwan reviewers pay for their own meals. If we don't, we tell you.