WHEN I first went looking for a place to rent on Phuket, a local owner escorted me through her house.
The bedrooms looked good. The living room was spacious and bright. But something was wrong. Something was missing.
''Where,'' I asked her, ''Is the kitchen?'' My friend the translator converted the question from English to Thai, then we awaited a response.
The would-be landlady rocked with laughter for a moment or two, then she said: ''Why on earth would you want a kitchen, when there are so many great restaurants all around you?''
And you know, she was right. Within easy walking distance, there were open-air diners galore, specialising in breakfast, lunch and dinner.
Mobile carts made the rounds, too, offering all kinds of delights every day. Surrounded by tasty Thai food, I never did miss a kitchen.
Laguna Phuket is a little bit like my friendly old Phuket suburb. The mobile carts may be missing, but there are plenty of great eating options all within an easy stroll, or a short shuttle bus ride.
Coming to Phuket is always a delight for the senses. There is the weather, essentially good-natured but with many moods, the beauty of the beaches and the island greenery, the easy-going charm of the Thai people.
And there is the extraordinary taste of Thai food.
Whether your first real Thai meal in Thailand lies ahead, or whether you are looking forward to your next spicy som tam salad, Laguna Phuket has plenty to offer those who come seeking Asian delights.
Because individual tastes are so different, there is not much advice I can offer, except perhaps when it comes to spicyness.
Consult the experts at the restaurants. Try a little heat.
If you find that you do not like chilli surprises, the words to remember are mai ped (please, please, not too hot). A little repetition helps.
Within Laguna, the chefs are especially attuned to the capabilities of visiting palates. Thai food will be served to your exact requirements, particularly when it comes to ''hot''.
As one couple among the tasting teams in our Asian food survey found, at Laguna you can even order lobster that is ped at one end and mai ped at the other.
If you happen to eat a little over halfway, you may find that you like a little Laguna ped and it leads on to other taste sensations.
The secret of Thai cooking can be easily summed up: fresh and fast. Good, fresh ingredients are brought to Laguna Phuket each day, and before you know it, they are being served at restaurant tables.
That's what makes all Asian cooking styles, especially Thai, so refreshingly different. Try them at Laguna. It's hard to imagine a more perfect setting.
As for my laughing landlady, given the way the world is changing, more houses in Thailand these days are probably being built with space for grillers and hotplates, and probably even fullscale kitchens.
But I bet there are still plenty that never get used.
THE THAI TASTE TEST
'Marilyn always has the lobster and I'm not a great fan but
they put a chilli sauce on it at one end for me, and it was
delicious.'
The Restaurant: Ruen Thai, Dusit Thani Laguna Phuket
The Tasters: Marilyn and Keith Squires
The Squires are English and have been coming to Phuket for eight years. Keith took early retirement four years ago. They travel widely and are frequent diners at Laguna Phuket restaurants.
Marilyn: We found a lovely table overlooking the lagoon to watch the sun go down. It was like seeing old friends, really. This time the head waiter, who is very good, suggested dishes that we should try. Otherwise we would have ordered our favourites. Mine are Phuket lobster and pineapple rice.
Keith: Ruen Thai has always been a special favourite. We love it for many reasons. Because we've come back for so many years, people recognise us. They remember your face and welcome you back. I like curries. Some of them are a bit hot for Marilyn, but I like that whole style of cooking. You always think of curries as requiring a drink of water in one hand to counteract the pain at the back of the throat. But of course, it doesn't need to be like that at all. The ones they make here are so sublime.
Marilyn: We began with a tangy green mango salad and a mix of tasty starters. Then we continued with steamed sea bass, delicious Phuket lobster and jasmine rice, then of course, mango with sticky rice.
Keith: The lobster was flambeed at the table and the head waiter explained every dish as it came out. He mixed the salad at the table, too. He even bought the chef out to introduce him to us. Marilyn always has the lobster and I'm not a great fan but they put a chilli sauce on it at one end for me, and it was delicious.
Marilyn: We enjoyed being guided out of our comfort zone. Left to my own devices, I probably wouldn't have tried the green mango salad. But now I would.
The HIGHLIGHT
Keith: The ambience. It's all calm and serene when you go there. For special occasions, it's a lovely place to dine out to give you a truly memorable evening. Ruen Thai is set aside from the hotel and of all-wooden construction, so you can imagine it being a truly Thai restaurant as opposed to brick-built.
Do you eat Asian away from Asia?
Marilyn: We do now as I like the flavours. You don't have to have hot, you can have sweet. You can have gentle tastes, spicy, rather than hot. And the flavours are wonderful.
'One thing we don't like is a posh restaurant where you're almost frightened to say anything because it's like a cathedral.'
The Restaurant: Saffron, Banyan Tree Phuket
The Tasters: Carol and Anthony Dell
The Dells are from northern England and, in their 60s, have both taken on new jobs they enjoy. They have four grandchildren, keep fit, and have been coming to Phuket for three years.
Anthony: Dinner was excellent, everything that we hoped it would be. Lovely setting, gorgeous food, great service. One thing we don't like is a posh restaurant where you're almost frightened to say anything because it's like a cathedral. Saffron on the other hand was very relaxed and the staff were extremely attentive, but they effortlessly blended in to the background. We caught the shuttle bus from Laguna Holiday Club Resort to Banyan Tree. It's so easy.
Carol: The staff were friendly, smiling, and spoke very good English. The decor was so lovely, that I wanted to know if I could purchase the table decoration.
Anthony: We ordered the signature dish, the lobster. Then we worked backwards to decide if we could squeeze in an appetizer as well? Yes, why not. So I chose the prawns and you chose the . . .
Carol: . . . satay chicken, which we shared. It was all fabulously presented. The joy of eating in a restaurant like Saffron is that all the food appears to be a labour of love. In this case, they did excell themselves.
Anthony: The appetizers were very decorative, and very tasty.
Carol: And then the lobster. Wow!
Anthony: Yes, the lobster was excellent, served in a tangy tamarind sauce. And it was unfussy, just as we like it, so you could really taste the lobster, which was a treat. Back home we have an excellent local fishmonger, but lobster is not generally available. Saffron's lobster was up there with the best of them. A Chilean chardonnay went very well with it.
Carol: At Saffron the menu is healthy so you can eat very well and still feel comfortable. As it was a special treat, we decided to share a dessert. It was possibly the first time we've had a dessert in Thailand . . . banana creme brulee, which I've never ever tried before, but we both thoroughly enjoyed it.
The HIGHLIGHT
Carol: The people are so lovely. They have the most beautiful smiles I have ever seen, both the men and the women, and they really do enjoy looking after you.
And do you plan to come back next year?
Anthony: We'll probably come back to Laguna next year and when we do, we'll definitely return to Saffron for sure. It will almost certainly be the same time of year because we love to escape the English winter.
'We just couldn't get over the immaculate presentation. It's amazing what they can do with Thai food.'
The Restaurant: Rim Talay, Laguna Beach Resort
The Tasters: Nigel and Rebecca Sherman
The Shermans are Australian and have been coming to Phuket for three years. The arrival of their son Hunter, who will be two this year, has led them to see Laguna Phuket differently. Tonight Hunter is in the capable care of a babysitter.
Nigel: As you come down the stairs, you've got the Thai buffet, then you go down to the outdoor setting along the edge of the lagoon. We started off inside, then we thought we'd like to sit outside. We were given a large table and that turned out to be wise because of the number of dishes.
Rebecca: It was a very impressive restaurant because of the lighting, and the Thai dancers performing with the Thai musicians playing. We had music the whole time we were there, which was very relaxing. The view was magnificent with the lagoon on one side, and the dancers on the other.
Nigel: And the storm coming in with the lightning . . . that added even more to it. Some families were there, and the children danced with the dancers. Taking photos was no problem, it is neat-casual, not at all stuffy.
Rebecca: The food was fantastic, and so much. It was really nice as they had a set menu for us so we could try lots of different dishes. The appetizer was . . .
Nigel: . . . a spring roll type of dish. The seafood was crumbed into a ball. We also had chicken wrapped in pandanus leaves. After that, they brought out a large fish, lightly fried, I would say, and melt-in-your-mouth soft. We also had soup in a coconut, with little pieces of tender chicken. That was delicious.
Rebecca: We were served four lovely dishes as the main course. Scallops with asparagus, stir-fried chicken, and stirfried rice that came with prawns in a pineapple.
Nigel: The huge tiger prawns came with the middle section opened up, and sauteed.
Rebecca: That was quite spicy so I couldn't eat a lot of that. One of us likes spicy, the other does not, so we tend to order our own items. We also had dessert, a mixed selection including sticky rice and mango and some other Thai desserts we'd never tried before: a little cakey thing, and some kind of coconut jelly.
Nigel: All very tasty.
The HIGHLIGHT
Rebecca: We just couldn't get over the immaculate presentation. It's amazing what they can do with Thai food. You can see the cooking area and the staff are fantastic, very considerate, polite and friendy. They kept filling our glasses and the service was great.
How has Hunter adapted to Thailand?
Nigel: We were a little worried about how his stomach would take it but he absolutely loves noodles. He loves the water, too. We alternate one day out, with one day staying in at Allamanda. A ride on an elephant rocked him to sleep nicely.
'I've never had wine with Chinese food before. Usually Thai guys drink beer or whisky. And for women, perhaps Chinese tea or chrysanthemum tea.'
The Restaurant: Tea House, Sheraton Grande Laguna Phuket
The Tasters: Mr Poontana and Mrs Hatairat Musikaboonlert
Khun Poontana and Khun Hatairat visit the region regularly to go diving. Khun Poontana also enjoys playing golf at Laguna Phuket Golf Club. The couple live and work in Bangkok, where Khun Poontana enjoys cooking at weekends.
Hatairat: The dinner was great, but we weren't expecting Chinese cuisine. You don't normally expect Chinese food when you go to the seaside. But they had a good variety of seafood, shrimp and fish.
Poontana: Tea House is like a small, traditional Chinese hotel spread over two floors. We entered by the back door but we should have gone through the front door to appreciate the full effect of the stunning decor and lovely ambience.
Hatairat: We eat at a lot of Chinese restaurants in Bangkok.
Poontana: But we never usually have Chinese when we go to the beach, so this was our first time trying contemporary Chinese food in Phuket. Tea House has quite an interesting menu. I have travelled in China and surprisingly, the dishes here are more tasty.
Hatairat: For starters, we tried a salad.
Poontana: We really wanted Peking duck but it would be too much for just the two of us . . .
Hatairat: . . . So the waitresses suggested we try the duck salad and it turned out very similar to Peking duck.
Poontana: It was very good, and the sauce was not too sweet. We also had the deep-fried crispy squid and shrimp. The squid was very fresh and tender.
Hatairat: Then we had Seychuan soup
Poontana: . . . A bit sour, but that's the way it should be, I think.
Hatairat: For the main course we had steamed Phuket lobster. We ordered steamed because we like it to be tender. Then we had the steamed grouper with soya sauce. When I was young I did not like eating fish, but now we eat it often to stay healthy. The fish was very fresh and the dish was excellent. This one is, I guarantee, very good. We also had broccoli with black mushrooms, stir fried.
Poontana: For dessert, we tried the delicious mango pudding and banana fritter.
Hatairat: We've never had wine with Chinese food before. Usually Thai guys drink beer or whisky. And for women maybe Chinese tea or chrysanthemum tea.
Poontana: We found the Broken Hill red wine from Australia to be very pleasant with the meal.
The HIGHLIGHT
Poontana: The service, and the chilli sauce. The staff are very well trained and they were patient with us and gave us good advice. The chilli sauce turned out to be excellent. I think it's suitable to be a permanent side dish. It could go with anything on the menu.
Hatairat: He likes hot and spicy. Me, not so much. We both enjoyed the duck salad. It had crispy skin but soft, tender meat. Very impressive. I imagine you could have it as a main course with a bigger portion.
So will you eat Chinese in Phuket again?
Poontana: Definitely. It's delicious!
This article first appeared in Laguna lifestyle & travel magazine, June-December 2008. The four couples are members of Laguna Holiday Club. The restaurants picked up the tabs.
The bedrooms looked good. The living room was spacious and bright. But something was wrong. Something was missing.
''Where,'' I asked her, ''Is the kitchen?'' My friend the translator converted the question from English to Thai, then we awaited a response.
The would-be landlady rocked with laughter for a moment or two, then she said: ''Why on earth would you want a kitchen, when there are so many great restaurants all around you?''
And you know, she was right. Within easy walking distance, there were open-air diners galore, specialising in breakfast, lunch and dinner.
Mobile carts made the rounds, too, offering all kinds of delights every day. Surrounded by tasty Thai food, I never did miss a kitchen.
Laguna Phuket is a little bit like my friendly old Phuket suburb. The mobile carts may be missing, but there are plenty of great eating options all within an easy stroll, or a short shuttle bus ride.
Coming to Phuket is always a delight for the senses. There is the weather, essentially good-natured but with many moods, the beauty of the beaches and the island greenery, the easy-going charm of the Thai people.
And there is the extraordinary taste of Thai food.
Whether your first real Thai meal in Thailand lies ahead, or whether you are looking forward to your next spicy som tam salad, Laguna Phuket has plenty to offer those who come seeking Asian delights.
Because individual tastes are so different, there is not much advice I can offer, except perhaps when it comes to spicyness.
Consult the experts at the restaurants. Try a little heat.
If you find that you do not like chilli surprises, the words to remember are mai ped (please, please, not too hot). A little repetition helps.
Within Laguna, the chefs are especially attuned to the capabilities of visiting palates. Thai food will be served to your exact requirements, particularly when it comes to ''hot''.
As one couple among the tasting teams in our Asian food survey found, at Laguna you can even order lobster that is ped at one end and mai ped at the other.
If you happen to eat a little over halfway, you may find that you like a little Laguna ped and it leads on to other taste sensations.
The secret of Thai cooking can be easily summed up: fresh and fast. Good, fresh ingredients are brought to Laguna Phuket each day, and before you know it, they are being served at restaurant tables.
That's what makes all Asian cooking styles, especially Thai, so refreshingly different. Try them at Laguna. It's hard to imagine a more perfect setting.
As for my laughing landlady, given the way the world is changing, more houses in Thailand these days are probably being built with space for grillers and hotplates, and probably even fullscale kitchens.
But I bet there are still plenty that never get used.
THE THAI TASTE TEST
'Marilyn always has the lobster and I'm not a great fan but
they put a chilli sauce on it at one end for me, and it was
delicious.'
The Restaurant: Ruen Thai, Dusit Thani Laguna Phuket
The Tasters: Marilyn and Keith Squires
The Squires are English and have been coming to Phuket for eight years. Keith took early retirement four years ago. They travel widely and are frequent diners at Laguna Phuket restaurants.
Marilyn: We found a lovely table overlooking the lagoon to watch the sun go down. It was like seeing old friends, really. This time the head waiter, who is very good, suggested dishes that we should try. Otherwise we would have ordered our favourites. Mine are Phuket lobster and pineapple rice.
Keith: Ruen Thai has always been a special favourite. We love it for many reasons. Because we've come back for so many years, people recognise us. They remember your face and welcome you back. I like curries. Some of them are a bit hot for Marilyn, but I like that whole style of cooking. You always think of curries as requiring a drink of water in one hand to counteract the pain at the back of the throat. But of course, it doesn't need to be like that at all. The ones they make here are so sublime.
Marilyn: We began with a tangy green mango salad and a mix of tasty starters. Then we continued with steamed sea bass, delicious Phuket lobster and jasmine rice, then of course, mango with sticky rice.
Keith: The lobster was flambeed at the table and the head waiter explained every dish as it came out. He mixed the salad at the table, too. He even bought the chef out to introduce him to us. Marilyn always has the lobster and I'm not a great fan but they put a chilli sauce on it at one end for me, and it was delicious.
Marilyn: We enjoyed being guided out of our comfort zone. Left to my own devices, I probably wouldn't have tried the green mango salad. But now I would.
The HIGHLIGHT
Keith: The ambience. It's all calm and serene when you go there. For special occasions, it's a lovely place to dine out to give you a truly memorable evening. Ruen Thai is set aside from the hotel and of all-wooden construction, so you can imagine it being a truly Thai restaurant as opposed to brick-built.
Do you eat Asian away from Asia?
Marilyn: We do now as I like the flavours. You don't have to have hot, you can have sweet. You can have gentle tastes, spicy, rather than hot. And the flavours are wonderful.
'One thing we don't like is a posh restaurant where you're almost frightened to say anything because it's like a cathedral.'
The Restaurant: Saffron, Banyan Tree Phuket
The Tasters: Carol and Anthony Dell
The Dells are from northern England and, in their 60s, have both taken on new jobs they enjoy. They have four grandchildren, keep fit, and have been coming to Phuket for three years.
Anthony: Dinner was excellent, everything that we hoped it would be. Lovely setting, gorgeous food, great service. One thing we don't like is a posh restaurant where you're almost frightened to say anything because it's like a cathedral. Saffron on the other hand was very relaxed and the staff were extremely attentive, but they effortlessly blended in to the background. We caught the shuttle bus from Laguna Holiday Club Resort to Banyan Tree. It's so easy.
Carol: The staff were friendly, smiling, and spoke very good English. The decor was so lovely, that I wanted to know if I could purchase the table decoration.
Anthony: We ordered the signature dish, the lobster. Then we worked backwards to decide if we could squeeze in an appetizer as well? Yes, why not. So I chose the prawns and you chose the . . .
Carol: . . . satay chicken, which we shared. It was all fabulously presented. The joy of eating in a restaurant like Saffron is that all the food appears to be a labour of love. In this case, they did excell themselves.
Anthony: The appetizers were very decorative, and very tasty.
Carol: And then the lobster. Wow!
Anthony: Yes, the lobster was excellent, served in a tangy tamarind sauce. And it was unfussy, just as we like it, so you could really taste the lobster, which was a treat. Back home we have an excellent local fishmonger, but lobster is not generally available. Saffron's lobster was up there with the best of them. A Chilean chardonnay went very well with it.
Carol: At Saffron the menu is healthy so you can eat very well and still feel comfortable. As it was a special treat, we decided to share a dessert. It was possibly the first time we've had a dessert in Thailand . . . banana creme brulee, which I've never ever tried before, but we both thoroughly enjoyed it.
The HIGHLIGHT
Carol: The people are so lovely. They have the most beautiful smiles I have ever seen, both the men and the women, and they really do enjoy looking after you.
And do you plan to come back next year?
Anthony: We'll probably come back to Laguna next year and when we do, we'll definitely return to Saffron for sure. It will almost certainly be the same time of year because we love to escape the English winter.
'We just couldn't get over the immaculate presentation. It's amazing what they can do with Thai food.'
The Restaurant: Rim Talay, Laguna Beach Resort
The Tasters: Nigel and Rebecca Sherman
The Shermans are Australian and have been coming to Phuket for three years. The arrival of their son Hunter, who will be two this year, has led them to see Laguna Phuket differently. Tonight Hunter is in the capable care of a babysitter.
Nigel: As you come down the stairs, you've got the Thai buffet, then you go down to the outdoor setting along the edge of the lagoon. We started off inside, then we thought we'd like to sit outside. We were given a large table and that turned out to be wise because of the number of dishes.
Rebecca: It was a very impressive restaurant because of the lighting, and the Thai dancers performing with the Thai musicians playing. We had music the whole time we were there, which was very relaxing. The view was magnificent with the lagoon on one side, and the dancers on the other.
Nigel: And the storm coming in with the lightning . . . that added even more to it. Some families were there, and the children danced with the dancers. Taking photos was no problem, it is neat-casual, not at all stuffy.
Rebecca: The food was fantastic, and so much. It was really nice as they had a set menu for us so we could try lots of different dishes. The appetizer was . . .
Nigel: . . . a spring roll type of dish. The seafood was crumbed into a ball. We also had chicken wrapped in pandanus leaves. After that, they brought out a large fish, lightly fried, I would say, and melt-in-your-mouth soft. We also had soup in a coconut, with little pieces of tender chicken. That was delicious.
Rebecca: We were served four lovely dishes as the main course. Scallops with asparagus, stir-fried chicken, and stirfried rice that came with prawns in a pineapple.
Nigel: The huge tiger prawns came with the middle section opened up, and sauteed.
Rebecca: That was quite spicy so I couldn't eat a lot of that. One of us likes spicy, the other does not, so we tend to order our own items. We also had dessert, a mixed selection including sticky rice and mango and some other Thai desserts we'd never tried before: a little cakey thing, and some kind of coconut jelly.
Nigel: All very tasty.
The HIGHLIGHT
Rebecca: We just couldn't get over the immaculate presentation. It's amazing what they can do with Thai food. You can see the cooking area and the staff are fantastic, very considerate, polite and friendy. They kept filling our glasses and the service was great.
How has Hunter adapted to Thailand?
Nigel: We were a little worried about how his stomach would take it but he absolutely loves noodles. He loves the water, too. We alternate one day out, with one day staying in at Allamanda. A ride on an elephant rocked him to sleep nicely.
'I've never had wine with Chinese food before. Usually Thai guys drink beer or whisky. And for women, perhaps Chinese tea or chrysanthemum tea.'
The Restaurant: Tea House, Sheraton Grande Laguna Phuket
The Tasters: Mr Poontana and Mrs Hatairat Musikaboonlert
Khun Poontana and Khun Hatairat visit the region regularly to go diving. Khun Poontana also enjoys playing golf at Laguna Phuket Golf Club. The couple live and work in Bangkok, where Khun Poontana enjoys cooking at weekends.
Hatairat: The dinner was great, but we weren't expecting Chinese cuisine. You don't normally expect Chinese food when you go to the seaside. But they had a good variety of seafood, shrimp and fish.
Poontana: Tea House is like a small, traditional Chinese hotel spread over two floors. We entered by the back door but we should have gone through the front door to appreciate the full effect of the stunning decor and lovely ambience.
Hatairat: We eat at a lot of Chinese restaurants in Bangkok.
Poontana: But we never usually have Chinese when we go to the beach, so this was our first time trying contemporary Chinese food in Phuket. Tea House has quite an interesting menu. I have travelled in China and surprisingly, the dishes here are more tasty.
Hatairat: For starters, we tried a salad.
Poontana: We really wanted Peking duck but it would be too much for just the two of us . . .
Hatairat: . . . So the waitresses suggested we try the duck salad and it turned out very similar to Peking duck.
Poontana: It was very good, and the sauce was not too sweet. We also had the deep-fried crispy squid and shrimp. The squid was very fresh and tender.
Hatairat: Then we had Seychuan soup
Poontana: . . . A bit sour, but that's the way it should be, I think.
Hatairat: For the main course we had steamed Phuket lobster. We ordered steamed because we like it to be tender. Then we had the steamed grouper with soya sauce. When I was young I did not like eating fish, but now we eat it often to stay healthy. The fish was very fresh and the dish was excellent. This one is, I guarantee, very good. We also had broccoli with black mushrooms, stir fried.
Poontana: For dessert, we tried the delicious mango pudding and banana fritter.
Hatairat: We've never had wine with Chinese food before. Usually Thai guys drink beer or whisky. And for women maybe Chinese tea or chrysanthemum tea.
Poontana: We found the Broken Hill red wine from Australia to be very pleasant with the meal.
The HIGHLIGHT
Poontana: The service, and the chilli sauce. The staff are very well trained and they were patient with us and gave us good advice. The chilli sauce turned out to be excellent. I think it's suitable to be a permanent side dish. It could go with anything on the menu.
Hatairat: He likes hot and spicy. Me, not so much. We both enjoyed the duck salad. It had crispy skin but soft, tender meat. Very impressive. I imagine you could have it as a main course with a bigger portion.
So will you eat Chinese in Phuket again?
Poontana: Definitely. It's delicious!
This article first appeared in Laguna lifestyle & travel magazine, June-December 2008. The four couples are members of Laguna Holiday Club. The restaurants picked up the tabs.
