ONE OF the Andaman's major tsunami tourist attractions is rapidly disappearing from sight.
A navy patrol boat that was swept about two kilometres inland near Khao Lak has attracted thousands of visitors and become a must-see for most trippers since December 26, 2004.
Now, piles of sand in a fenced-off area obscure the once-open view of the historic boat from the main road.
Phuketwan believes that the owner of a large slice of the land in front of the boat offered the property to local authorities to purchase, but at a price too high for them to afford.
Exactly what is planned for the property now is not clear.
Any building on the property will leave just a small sliver of public land from which the boat can be seen and accessed by passersby over a wooden bridge.
Already the boat's path from the ocean to where it now rests on a hillside has been obscured by buildings on the opposite side of the road.
The treatment of the most important icon of the tsunami in the Khao Lak region is in contrast to what has happened at the fishing village of Nam Khem, a few kilometres to the north.
There, two trawlers that were swept through the village by the big wave have been protected and turned into a tourist attraction.
One trawler became a killer. The other saved lives. The village, where about 800 died, also has a fine tsunami memorial park right on the seafront that includes a third trawler.
The same thought for tourism is not evident along the coast around Khao Lak, where shophouse development along both sides of the main road is coming at a hectic pace.
Quiet local restaurants are adding gold tablecloths and doubling prices, the sound of pile-driving fills the Sunday afternoon air, and the first signs are evident that a bar culture to match Kamala, if not Patong, is on the way.
Phang Nga has officially rejected vendors, jetskis and loungers on local beaches. But other Phuket fixtures and failings may be more difficult to resist.
This high season is likely to pose a new test of the marriage of increasing numbers of visitors with a desire to protect and preserve the province's natural assets.
A large influx of Russians is anticipated once the Turkish brand, Rixos Premium, reopens the Sofitel Magic Lagoon under its new name.
The area has tended to attract nature-loving Swedes and Germans until now.
More large developments appear to be underway at key sites along the coast. Elephant trekking is booming, along with monkey shows.
Amid a large number of moves recently approved by Cabinet in Bangkok, Phang Nga Governor Wichai Praisa-Ngob is to be transferred to become governor of Singburi.
His replacement will be Yiamsuriya Palusuk, vice-governor of Nong Bualamphoo. Governor Wichai served only a year in Phang Nga.
Krabi Governor Siwa Sirisaowalak seems likely to remain in that position until he reaches the mandatory retirement age of 60 next year.
How is business going now in Phang Nga and Krabi? Here's what the resorts told Phuketwan in our latest survey of the region:
Phang Nga resorts
Borsaen Villa and Spa (47 villas, open 2005). The four-star reports occupancy at 17 percent. Sophon Chusak, assistant hotel manager said that the spa, with its 12 spa staff, was expected to win visitors this high season despite the problems with the economy and politics. Advance bookinfs were running at 70 percent already, with most guests from Asia. Dynamic rates begin at 3500 baht.
The Koh Kho Khao Resort (136 rooms, opened 2002). The three-star resort reports occupancy at 60 percent. General manager Sirisak Limphanich said that this high season, bookings through agents were at 70 percent. Last year was better than this year because of the depressed economy and the political situation. Two or three new resorts had also opened on the beach. Guests are mostly from Scandinavia, especially Sweden. Dynamic rates begin at 2700 baht, including breakfast.
On Yao Noi island's beachfront sits the Khoyao Bay Pavillion. (five rooms, open 2006). This two-star reports occupancy at 40 percent. General Manager Ar-jib Pamuyama said that this resort is a family business, and now there are two big resorts under construction nearby. This high season should bring full bookings from November.
The Royal Bangsak Beach Resort (80 rooms, open 2004). This four-star reports occupancy at 30 percent. Front Office Manager Kajornsak Poung-jan said last year was better. This high season offers confirmed bookings from agents at 50 percent, with guests mostly German. Dynamic rates begin at 1700 baht for a standard room, rising to 4000 baht in November.
On Kho Khao Island, the Andaman Princess Resort and Spa (80 rooms, open 2005) reports occupancy at 10 percent. General Manager Thanakrit Laopanich says this year is better than last year because the resort has improved its marketing. This high season is bringing bookings at 50 percent, with guests mostly from Europe. Dynamic rates begin at 4000 baht for a room and 6000 baht for a villa.
On Pilai Beach,20 minutes from the airport, is Ranyatavi Resort. (53 rooms, open 2006) This four-star reported occupancy at 50 percent. Assistant Sales Manager Siriporn Juntharapukdee said last year was better, and the growth of private villas was up. Guests are mostly from Europe. High season bookings run at 50 percent. Dynamic rates are at 10,000 baht for a deluxe room.
Resorts in Krabi
On Ao Nang beach the three star Beach Terrace (43 rooms, open 2003) reports occupancy at 30 percent. Front Office Manager Peerada Bootnon says last year was better without economic and political upheaval, and the blockade of the airport. About 30 percent of bookings cancelled. New resorts had increased competition but the resort was already fully booked from the end of December. Guests are mostly from Sweden, Finland and Norway. Dynamic rates begin at 3200 baht for a deluxe room, including breakfast.
Downtown, the Krabi Royal (58 rooms, open 1985) reports occupancy at 50 percent. Managing Director Wichaya Pholdej says high season for the two-star should bring more bookings from Thai groups, mostly for seminars. Last year was better with competition now more intense. The fixed rate is 1400 baht, including breakfast
At Noppharat Beach, the Ao Nang Buri Resort (70 rooms, open 2004) reports occupancy at five percent. Personnel Manager Kanchana Noothongkum said last year was better without new resorts in construction and the blockade at the airports. Guesta are mostly from Australia and Thailand. Dynamic rates begin at 2500 baht.
On Lanta Island, the two-star Sayang Beach Resort (30 rooms, open 1998) could not report an occupancy rate, with owner Sanan Vungphon saying last year was better. For a good reason: the resort closed for renovations in May and will reopen in November. Guests mostly come from England and Sweden. Dynamic rates begin at 1750 baht.
On Ao-Nang Beach the three-star Krabi Heritage (78 rooms, open 2002) reports occupancy at 15 percent. Manager Panya Theinthong says this year was 30 percent down because of the blockade and Bangkok protests. This high season bookings are nearly full, certainly from Christmas until New Year. Guests are mostly from Sweden, Germany and England. Dynamic rates begin at 3800 baht for a deluxe room.
Ao Nang Prince Ville Resort (48 rooms, open 2001). The three-star cannot report an occupancy rate because the resort closed for renovate in July and expects to reopen in December. A spokeswoman says high season bookings are at 90 percent, with guests mostly from Norway and Sweden. Dynamic rates begin at 4500 baht.
Tsunami Trawlers Now Attract Tourists
The village of Nam Khem, which means salt water, was a sad place during the tsunami but its fortunes have changed now. Tourists are welcome. Go to see the twin trawlers.
Phuket Tsunami Trawlers Now Attract Tourists
A navy patrol boat that was swept about two kilometres inland near Khao Lak has attracted thousands of visitors and become a must-see for most trippers since December 26, 2004.
Now, piles of sand in a fenced-off area obscure the once-open view of the historic boat from the main road.
Phuketwan believes that the owner of a large slice of the land in front of the boat offered the property to local authorities to purchase, but at a price too high for them to afford.
Exactly what is planned for the property now is not clear.
Any building on the property will leave just a small sliver of public land from which the boat can be seen and accessed by passersby over a wooden bridge.
Already the boat's path from the ocean to where it now rests on a hillside has been obscured by buildings on the opposite side of the road.
The treatment of the most important icon of the tsunami in the Khao Lak region is in contrast to what has happened at the fishing village of Nam Khem, a few kilometres to the north.
There, two trawlers that were swept through the village by the big wave have been protected and turned into a tourist attraction.
One trawler became a killer. The other saved lives. The village, where about 800 died, also has a fine tsunami memorial park right on the seafront that includes a third trawler.
The same thought for tourism is not evident along the coast around Khao Lak, where shophouse development along both sides of the main road is coming at a hectic pace.
Quiet local restaurants are adding gold tablecloths and doubling prices, the sound of pile-driving fills the Sunday afternoon air, and the first signs are evident that a bar culture to match Kamala, if not Patong, is on the way.
Phang Nga has officially rejected vendors, jetskis and loungers on local beaches. But other Phuket fixtures and failings may be more difficult to resist.
This high season is likely to pose a new test of the marriage of increasing numbers of visitors with a desire to protect and preserve the province's natural assets.
A large influx of Russians is anticipated once the Turkish brand, Rixos Premium, reopens the Sofitel Magic Lagoon under its new name.
The area has tended to attract nature-loving Swedes and Germans until now.
More large developments appear to be underway at key sites along the coast. Elephant trekking is booming, along with monkey shows.
Amid a large number of moves recently approved by Cabinet in Bangkok, Phang Nga Governor Wichai Praisa-Ngob is to be transferred to become governor of Singburi.
His replacement will be Yiamsuriya Palusuk, vice-governor of Nong Bualamphoo. Governor Wichai served only a year in Phang Nga.
Krabi Governor Siwa Sirisaowalak seems likely to remain in that position until he reaches the mandatory retirement age of 60 next year.
How is business going now in Phang Nga and Krabi? Here's what the resorts told Phuketwan in our latest survey of the region:
Phang Nga resorts
Borsaen Villa and Spa (47 villas, open 2005). The four-star reports occupancy at 17 percent. Sophon Chusak, assistant hotel manager said that the spa, with its 12 spa staff, was expected to win visitors this high season despite the problems with the economy and politics. Advance bookinfs were running at 70 percent already, with most guests from Asia. Dynamic rates begin at 3500 baht.
The Koh Kho Khao Resort (136 rooms, opened 2002). The three-star resort reports occupancy at 60 percent. General manager Sirisak Limphanich said that this high season, bookings through agents were at 70 percent. Last year was better than this year because of the depressed economy and the political situation. Two or three new resorts had also opened on the beach. Guests are mostly from Scandinavia, especially Sweden. Dynamic rates begin at 2700 baht, including breakfast.
On Yao Noi island's beachfront sits the Khoyao Bay Pavillion. (five rooms, open 2006). This two-star reports occupancy at 40 percent. General Manager Ar-jib Pamuyama said that this resort is a family business, and now there are two big resorts under construction nearby. This high season should bring full bookings from November.
The Royal Bangsak Beach Resort (80 rooms, open 2004). This four-star reports occupancy at 30 percent. Front Office Manager Kajornsak Poung-jan said last year was better. This high season offers confirmed bookings from agents at 50 percent, with guests mostly German. Dynamic rates begin at 1700 baht for a standard room, rising to 4000 baht in November.
On Kho Khao Island, the Andaman Princess Resort and Spa (80 rooms, open 2005) reports occupancy at 10 percent. General Manager Thanakrit Laopanich says this year is better than last year because the resort has improved its marketing. This high season is bringing bookings at 50 percent, with guests mostly from Europe. Dynamic rates begin at 4000 baht for a room and 6000 baht for a villa.
On Pilai Beach,20 minutes from the airport, is Ranyatavi Resort. (53 rooms, open 2006) This four-star reported occupancy at 50 percent. Assistant Sales Manager Siriporn Juntharapukdee said last year was better, and the growth of private villas was up. Guests are mostly from Europe. High season bookings run at 50 percent. Dynamic rates are at 10,000 baht for a deluxe room.
Resorts in Krabi
On Ao Nang beach the three star Beach Terrace (43 rooms, open 2003) reports occupancy at 30 percent. Front Office Manager Peerada Bootnon says last year was better without economic and political upheaval, and the blockade of the airport. About 30 percent of bookings cancelled. New resorts had increased competition but the resort was already fully booked from the end of December. Guests are mostly from Sweden, Finland and Norway. Dynamic rates begin at 3200 baht for a deluxe room, including breakfast.
Downtown, the Krabi Royal (58 rooms, open 1985) reports occupancy at 50 percent. Managing Director Wichaya Pholdej says high season for the two-star should bring more bookings from Thai groups, mostly for seminars. Last year was better with competition now more intense. The fixed rate is 1400 baht, including breakfast
At Noppharat Beach, the Ao Nang Buri Resort (70 rooms, open 2004) reports occupancy at five percent. Personnel Manager Kanchana Noothongkum said last year was better without new resorts in construction and the blockade at the airports. Guesta are mostly from Australia and Thailand. Dynamic rates begin at 2500 baht.
On Lanta Island, the two-star Sayang Beach Resort (30 rooms, open 1998) could not report an occupancy rate, with owner Sanan Vungphon saying last year was better. For a good reason: the resort closed for renovations in May and will reopen in November. Guests mostly come from England and Sweden. Dynamic rates begin at 1750 baht.
On Ao-Nang Beach the three-star Krabi Heritage (78 rooms, open 2002) reports occupancy at 15 percent. Manager Panya Theinthong says this year was 30 percent down because of the blockade and Bangkok protests. This high season bookings are nearly full, certainly from Christmas until New Year. Guests are mostly from Sweden, Germany and England. Dynamic rates begin at 3800 baht for a deluxe room.
Ao Nang Prince Ville Resort (48 rooms, open 2001). The three-star cannot report an occupancy rate because the resort closed for renovate in July and expects to reopen in December. A spokeswoman says high season bookings are at 90 percent, with guests mostly from Norway and Sweden. Dynamic rates begin at 4500 baht.
Tsunami Trawlers Now Attract Tourists
The village of Nam Khem, which means salt water, was a sad place during the tsunami but its fortunes have changed now. Tourists are welcome. Go to see the twin trawlers.
Phuket Tsunami Trawlers Now Attract Tourists