CHILDREN'S DAY, we figured, was an appropriate time to look at the future of Phuket . . . so we visited the Saphan Hin dump, and were astonished by the vista before us.

Huge levee banks have been built in an attempt to corral the vast sprawling mass of muck that is Phuket's garbage, the stuff we don't want but can't get rid of easily.

New zones of rubbish have been opened up. Trash now stretches, quite literally, to the horizon. Birds circle, dogs prowl. It is a vision of apocalypse now.

We visit the dump each year and the explosion of muck in 2010 is just astonishing. Several trench-diggers are at work there now, building the levee banks or shifting muck.

Phuket now has its very own muck-rackers. Teams of people, mostly women, are working under beach umbrellas, sorting wet garbage from compactible dry garbage.

The people here are among the friendliest on Phuket and one man quickly became our guide around the huge area that has been opened up behind the Saphan Hin incinerator, the island's only real method of disposal.

Here's where all the rubbish comes, created by residents and tourists.

While the huge levee banks and the hopper seem to offer a sign that something is being done, the trucks keep coming. They come often, from dawn until dusk, dumping and departing.

The muck trucks go on their way over muddy roads, and the scavengers descend. We saw a spotted coat held up by one, almost in triumph, a found-object trophy.

Over near the recycling hopper, where the muck-rakers worked, two children played near a shabby hut.

Across the main road at Saphan Hin park, better-dressed children were enjoying their special day. This is a great place to go. The park is always packed and Thai children by the thousands are performing, eating fairy floss, playing games, having fun.

Most of them, we reckon, will still be around on Phuket in 20 years, perhaps bringing their own children to enjoy the special day at Saphan Hin.

Will the muck monster across the main road be under control? Will Phuket people understand soon the pressing need to be responsible, to reduce, reuse, recycle? We hope so.

Right now we reckon, judging by what we saw today, the monster is winning.