THE Kathu Temple street parade for the Vegetarian Festival came past Central Festival today, which is always an interesting juxtaposition of the old Phuket culture and the new Phuket culture.
It's where shopping and the spirits meet, perhaps agreeing to proceed in different directions.
And it means that the Vegetarian Festival is on its last legs now, with a few wheels added this year.
Today's procession from Kathu, where the festival had its beginnings back in 1825, seemed to have more vehicles along for support that we remember. Bright sunshine makes the trip to Phuket City and back a long and demanding route.
Just like marathon runners, the pierced ''spirit warriors'' and their helpers are in it for the long haul.
So there was a drinks station outside Surakul Sports Stadium, where the helpers at least could take in as much sugary red cordial as they could hold.
The warriors, for the most part, shook their heads and moved on, trancing and dancing down the road to Phuket City.
It's a bit difficult to take on board liquid anyway, when your mouth is a jumble of metal or your tongue happens to be split by a sword.
Some of the mah song (entranced warriors) had the crowd bowing low in supplication as they passed, and they were clearly possessed in special ways. Strings of fireworks burst above on large bamboo poles.
Children walked in a phalanx within the procession and also looked on in large family groups, learning what to do at some point in five or 10 years when they too come of age and take part in the most vibrant of Phuket's festivals.
We remain impressed with the spectacle and constantly surprised as some of the things we see.
This year, such a moment came when an elderly man in white moved across the road to be blessed by a mah song who was passing at a slow pace on the rear of a pick-up.
When their hands touched, the man jumped back, as if he had just received an electrical shock. His eyes widened and he stared at the mah song.
We hope it was good news.
Driving home, we passed Central Festival, where another group of mah song in a smaller parade was waiting for a green light.
For all the certainties of its future as a playground for planeloads of tourists and an intersection for investment capital, the old Phuket still packs surprises.
The nine-day Vegetarian Festival concludes on Monday with one of the most startling nights on the island's calendar.
Old Phuket Town grows fat with onlookers in white as as the mah song carry the invading spirits back to the sea. At times, the air fills with firecrackers.
It's an amazing mix of exhultation and ear-splitting noise.
Phuket Vegetarian Warrior Falls into Hot CoalsIt's where shopping and the spirits meet, perhaps agreeing to proceed in different directions.
And it means that the Vegetarian Festival is on its last legs now, with a few wheels added this year.
Today's procession from Kathu, where the festival had its beginnings back in 1825, seemed to have more vehicles along for support that we remember. Bright sunshine makes the trip to Phuket City and back a long and demanding route.
Just like marathon runners, the pierced ''spirit warriors'' and their helpers are in it for the long haul.
So there was a drinks station outside Surakul Sports Stadium, where the helpers at least could take in as much sugary red cordial as they could hold.
The warriors, for the most part, shook their heads and moved on, trancing and dancing down the road to Phuket City.
It's a bit difficult to take on board liquid anyway, when your mouth is a jumble of metal or your tongue happens to be split by a sword.
Some of the mah song (entranced warriors) had the crowd bowing low in supplication as they passed, and they were clearly possessed in special ways. Strings of fireworks burst above on large bamboo poles.
Children walked in a phalanx within the procession and also looked on in large family groups, learning what to do at some point in five or 10 years when they too come of age and take part in the most vibrant of Phuket's festivals.
We remain impressed with the spectacle and constantly surprised as some of the things we see.
This year, such a moment came when an elderly man in white moved across the road to be blessed by a mah song who was passing at a slow pace on the rear of a pick-up.
When their hands touched, the man jumped back, as if he had just received an electrical shock. His eyes widened and he stared at the mah song.
We hope it was good news.
Driving home, we passed Central Festival, where another group of mah song in a smaller parade was waiting for a green light.
For all the certainties of its future as a playground for planeloads of tourists and an intersection for investment capital, the old Phuket still packs surprises.
The nine-day Vegetarian Festival concludes on Monday with one of the most startling nights on the island's calendar.
Old Phuket Town grows fat with onlookers in white as as the mah song carry the invading spirits back to the sea. At times, the air fills with firecrackers.
It's an amazing mix of exhultation and ear-splitting noise.
Phuket Latest A 'spirit warrior' collapsed onto a bed of hot coals at a Chinese temple in central Phuket last night, badly burning the man and horrifying onlookers.
Phuket Vegetarian Warrior Falls into Hot Coals
Phuket's Best Day at the Beach: Photo Special
Photo Special Phuket's Vegetarian Festival sends its Taoist followers and photographers into raptures, for different reasons. It's an event without equal anywhere in the world.
Phuket's Best Day at the Beach: Photo Special
Phuket Vegetarian Festival, October 17-26
Phuket Latest Entranced warriors will need ID cards that also list the names of invading spirits for this year's Phuket Vegetarian Festival. For the first time, the gods will have to be registered.
Phuket Vegetarian Festival, October 17-26
Veggies Festival is awesome and a little frightening. Wanted to bring my toddlers to the mah song procession, but after my thai friend told me about her niece, on that time same age, who tried to pierce the mouth of her little brother with a knife at home after watching, I decided they stay at home and bought some "boom boom" for them instead.
The ones you hold in your hand and up to 50 colorful effects shoot out the thing. The third one exploded directly in my hand. I am still happy, that this one I did not give to my boy. And luckily I hold it at the lower end, so only some minor burns on my and his arm.
At one of the temples a maybe 12 year old with a motorbike rammed to the ground a respectable Thai Lady while fooling around with friends, who was so shocked, that she collapsed. Gladly no bad injuries.
For all the things that can go wrong at this festival, I am really surprised, how little actually does. Look like same power keep the worshipers save.
The food is great and the atmosphere also. Last year I was at a city festival in Phang Nga province including a shoot out of the local youth "clubs". Nothing like this here.
Thank you Phuket for letting me and my family take part in your Vegetarian Festival. We enjoy it a lot!
Posted by Lena on October 25, 2009 17:04