ONE OF the secrets of Phuket's spirit warriors has been revealed: a liking for maamaa noodles. Huge vats of noodles were being prepared this afternoon in readiness for tonight's sendoff.

The spirits that have occupied the bodies of the spirit warriors, or mah song for the past nine days will be driven out to sea tonight in a blaze of firecrackers.

First, many of the warriors will be given a food offering, which is what was in preparation at the Jang Ong Shrine off Yaowarat Road in Phuket City this evening.

It will be all white on the night, too. Thousands of supporters of the Vegetarian Festival will descend on Phuket City's old town to fill the streets and watch the passing parade.

Thunderclouds were building up over the island's capital, perhaps offering the threat of a natural alternative to the truckloads of fireworks that will be exploding tonight, many of them under the bare feet of the dancing entranced warriors.

There is an unparalelled exuberance about tonight's farewell that makes it a once-in-a-lifetime experience for many visitors.

As the running of the bulls is to Pamplona, so the propitiation farewell to the gods is to Phuket, with the bonus that nobody gets gored.

Everybody gets noodles, though, in preparation.

So it's goodbye in a firecracker finale to Phuket's amazing maamaa mah song.Then we will all have to wait until next year for our festival fill, when the spirits will be welcomed back.